Scosche LOC2SL Line Output Converter with Remote Control Knob - 2CH High/Low RCA Converter Car Audio - Ideal for Subwoofer Amp - Line Level Converter for Car Stereo - Easy Installation - Quality Sound

Used this in my Goldwing to convert hi I put from stock amp to rca and then fed it to my amp in trunk. It’s palm sized and quality is good. Recommend for the price. Lot of instructions given, so very easy to install. Love it. Recommend to buy, amazing price. Put this cause my Goldwing stock amp hi level was too hot and this made it so much better

I'm using this in an unconventional application: taking a shortwave radio speaker output and converting it to line level inputs to an audio equalizer. It's perfect for this and works like a charm. The price is cheaper than buying a single audio transformer, and the adjustable level on the converter is very convenient. I can't comment on how good it sounds in a car stereo application, but for a communications receiver it works perfectly.

Worked out great to get rca signal from the speakers to the amp! Great sound no static!

I bought this for my son's sub amp and speaker installation. He had received an amp and a pair of 12 inch subs for Christmas. I needed this to tap into the high level speaker lines for the signal for the amp. The installation seemed straightforward enough but I encountered several problems. Once the system was wired exactly as specified by this and by the amp wiring diagram the system worked and sounded good. All seemed well. We went to bed that night and guess what......the next morning the battery was dead in the car. Out came the charger and that issue was resolved. The next day.....the same thing. A complete check of the wiring showed no stray strands, no bare wires pushed too far in grounding on the amp case, etc. There were no points where any wires were rubbed bare against metal, etc. Much research really turned up nothing so I took matters into my own hands. I disconnected both the hot wire going to the amp itself and also the so called remote turn on wire from this LOC going to the amp and guess what.....no more dead battery. I played with the car a couple of days, played the normal stereo, etc. and all worked fine as before. This made me confident that something was going on with this box, the amp or a combination of the two. Since my son is off at college 100 miles away a dead battery in the morning when leaving for school is not an option. I did some more research and bought a Stinger relay for the main 4 ga power wire. I cut my feed wire, ran it through the contacts on the relay and then wired the coil of the Stinger across a low usage relay in the relay fuse block under the hood. Then to be doubly safe I bought a little $5 four pin relay from the auto parts house and powered the coil off the feed wire for the amp and the ground. Then I ran the remote turn on through the contacts and viola......no more dead battery issues. The car has been ran for a week now with no problems, the volts are staying exactly where they should be, etc. This combination means that the amp has no power until the car key is turned and energizes the Stinger. Then the feed through the Stinger gives power to the other relay to complete the remote turn on circuit. Then if the radio system is turned on the remote turn on will let the amp energize and we have sub sounds. I really have no complete knowledge of what the issue was but just that this box did not work as it should have based on expectations. My son's car has the fancy Microsoft Sync hands free live telephone system and communication package so I have gleaned some knowledge since you can basically speak and the system will power up and allow you to make hands free phone calls or texts, that there must be a low level live signal coming to the speakers that effectively makes this LOC keep the amp on standby even though the amp power light is off. My wiring solution solves all that. With all being said and done.....the LOC works well, we have the sounds we wanted and everyone is pleased. I would recommend this LOC but would just advise you to take my mods into consideration if you encounter issues like I did.

Got this installed in my 2008 Toyota Avalon XL after a painstaking process... And it sounds great! I'm using it to power a 750w amp and two 350w subs with my stock head unit. Note, Camrys of this generation have the same wiring colors. Didn't have to adjust the gains for my left or right channels, just tapped into the rear speakers (Left Rear - Yellow with Grey stripes (+) , Black with Grey stripes (-). Right rear - Red with Grey stripes (+), White with Grey stripes (-). I tapped into them on the seat belt column area. I suppose you could do it at the head unit, but I felt safer doing it behind the seatbelt column panel. You can tell they're the speaker wires because they're the only wires intertwined together. The rest of the wires on the harness are not. I used wire taps where you crimp two wires next to each other together with a piece of metal, so I didn't have to cut wires. To get the 12v constant, I simply crimped the wire to a 5A fused line, then crimped it to an extra wire, which I stuck into the "B+" input on my amp, joining it with the power line from the battery. For the ground I did the same thing, routed the wire to the GND input on my amp with the ground wire stuffed in there. The Remote wire actually works very well and for now, has not given me issues. I was relived to not have to route another remote wire from some electrical part of the car, and I could just crimp a wire onto the remote wire from the LOC and connect it to my amp. It only turns the amp on when the radio is on. Perfect. My only fear is if the LOC Remote wire circuit malfunctions for some reason and causes my amp to kill my battery or something. Maybe there's a protection built in for that. Didn't seem to work at first and I thought it might be defective, but I re-did a few connections and it worked! I noticed more bass immediately and knew it wasn't my interior speakers. I connected the bass control knob, which I routed through the interior panels and it works flawlessly! It has a very wide range and is quite sensitive, at least for my set up. Turning it all the way down will essentially turn your sub off, so that's nice for when you need to go incognito! Couldn't be any happier with this. I didn't want to mess around with an aftermarket headunit so I decided to save myself a lot of headache and money. This will do the trick as long as you can tap into the right and left positive and negatives. Of your speakers.

I lost the bass knob to my Kenwood amp many years ago and always wanted a replacement. I've bought several Scosche products over the years and while the build quality isn't the nicest, they've always been robust, reliable products in my experience. Anyway, on to the product itself. Very easy to install; just connect the yellow wire to the Positive/BATT connection on your amp, the black wire to Negative/GND on the amp, and the blue and white wire to the REM/Remote connection on the amp. Finally, connect the remaining wires to your rear speakers. Just follow the color coding in the manual and note that you will need to run additional wire to the speakers (not included). Then turn up the gain to the loudest you would ever possibly want it to go without clipping/distorting. This will be the the same volume as the loudest setting on the bass knob. Finally, find a place to mount the knob, and you're good to go. Scosche was nice enough to include double-sided tape in the box, in case you don't want to drill holes to mount the knob. I found the bass to be much boomier at first compared to my amp's own speaker level inputs, but this was solved by simply turning down the gain knobs on the adapter, using the included adjustment tool (a mini slotted/flathead screwdriver works too). Anyway, I can't complain. This actually works better than my original bass knob that came with the amp, which worked like a bass boost rather than a gain control. My original knob would only turn UP the bass at certain frequencies, but not down. This Scosche knob adjusts the entire frequency range of your amp all at once, and can even be used to mute your subs entirely. 9.5/10 would recommend (0.5 taken off for build quality). Will update the review if anything changes.

I read every review possible for this device before purchasing it on Amazon. From what I could gather, it appeared to be a low-price option for my system that had a potentially good upside. I read some reviews stating that the connectors for the wires are bad (verified to be true - even with soldered wires, but it certainly shouldn't fall out!), and I read some reviews stating the the sound quality was reduced somewhere in the conversion process. The latter claim I can also verify to be true, which is why I am returning this product. More on this shortly. Here's what I was doing: I have a new car with a bad stereo (OEM - of course it's bad). I love music, and drive often - so I wanted a nice stereo. The first thing I did was replace the stock speakers to Polk MM651's and Polk DXi650's. This improved my sound, but not much (since they were likely getting like 5 - 8 watts RMS from my factory head unit). I installed an amplifier to help them really reach their potential - and wow did it ever - but I had the infamous alternator whine. After lots of troubleshooting, I realized it was the high level inputs that were causing it. So I purchased this unit to convert to a low level signal, hoping that would eliminate my alternator whine (although typically the whine is caused by ground loops, I was able to verify that mine was not). This device successfully eliminated my alternator whine, and my system was noise-free! So, in a sense, the device does what it says. However, I quickly noticed that the sound quality left something to be desired. It's hard to explain, but suffice it to say that there was something missing. Also, some of the notes sounded muddy to me at certain frequencies (I suspect the low end in particular, but I didn't leave it in long enough to analyze this further). I am returning this item because of this issue. After spending decent money (and lots of time) putting in speakers and an amp, I was not going to let the LOC be the weak link in my chain. So, I went and did what I should have immediately - I bought an AudioControl LC6i. This product is a POWERED line output converter, sums the incoming signal (useful if your stereo has active crossovers), has a built-in ground loop isolator (eliminates engine whine from ground loops), turns 4 channels into 6 (so you can run a subwoofer from it easily), is easy to install, has high build quality, and also sends as pure a signal as you can get from it with low noise (.01% THD I believe). Not to mention this thing amplified my signal so much that my amp is hardly even turned up anymore! LOVE this device. However, it is 5 - 7 times the price. Worth every penny in my opinion. Oh, and this is a nifty feature too: you can have this device remotely turn on the amp for you. So if you're like me and couldn't get your car stereo's remote trigger to work with the amp, you can simply relay this to the amp. Then the stereo will activate the LOC (via the speaker inputs), and the LOC activates the amp. This eliminated the "pop" noise when I turned on and off my stereo or plugged in my phone/iPod. Install Notes: Not as bad as some say, although the little screws can be a pain. Don't use the awful plastic tool they give you - use a real screwdriver. Adjusting the gains was easy. I had mine turned all the way up (since the device is passive, I can only imagine that turning the gains to anything but MAX is only lowering the signal from your head unit - it can't possible amplify it with no power). The device does feel flimsy, but it is solid enough to stay put in your car without worry of it breaking. Final Verdict: If you are an average person who just wants to eliminate alternator whine and you're sure it isn't a ground loop, or if you just need to convert to low-level signal for your amp and want to keep your factory radio, this may be perfectly fine for you. If you are someone building a nice audio system and value high fidelity sound, don't mess around with this thing. Go purchase an active (powered) line output converter and do your system some justice.

Worked perfect have to ride to my truck and hook my speakers up