BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0 Control Board Integrated TMC2209 UART Stepper Driver Supports Marlin/Klipper Compatible Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 V2 3D Printer Motherboard ZZB000590 Black

I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0 Control Board, and the difference has been remarkable. This board is a direct replacement for the stock Creality board, making installation straightforward. With the pre-installed firmware, I was up and running in no time. The standout feature is the silent stepper drivers—my printer is now whisper-quiet compared to the stock board. No more loud motor noise, just smooth, precise movements. Print quality has also improved, with noticeably fewer artifacts and better control over retractions. Another great feature is the 32-bit processing power. Compared to the stock 8-bit board, everything runs smoother, from faster calculations to better handling of complex prints. It also supports Marlin 2.0, giving me access to advanced features like linear advance and thermal runaway protection for added safety. For anyone looking to upgrade their Ender 3 (or similar printers) with a silent, powerful, and reliable mainboard, the SKR Mini E3 is an absolute must-have. Highly recommended.

I recently upgraded my Ender 3 with the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3, and it has completely transformed my printing experience. This board is a drop-in replacement for the stock Creality board, making installation super easy. It fit perfectly, and with the pre-installed firmware, I was up and running in no time. The biggest improvement is the silent stepper drivers—my printer is now whisper-quiet compared to the stock board. No more loud motor noise, just smooth, precise movements. Print quality has also improved, with noticeably fewer artifacts and better control over retractions. Another great feature is the 32-bit processing power. Compared to the stock 8-bit board, everything runs smoother, from faster calculations to better handling of complex prints. It also supports Marlin 2.0, giving me access to advanced features like linear advance and thermal runaway protection for added safety. For anyone looking to upgrade their Ender 3 (or similar printers) with a silent, powerful, and reliable mainboard, the SKR Mini E3 is an absolute must-have. Highly recommended

The loudest part of my 3D printers now are the fans! I have 2 3D printers which both had noisy stepper drivers (Ender 3 Max with Creality 4.2.2 (The Z Axis has the noisy stepper motor) and Ender 5 Plus with 8 bit motherboard with A4588 stepper drivers), after looking at some options I opted to get 1 of these for my ender 3 max as the board is a direct replacement for the creality mainboard. BTT didn't have readymade firmware for the ender 3 max so I had to compile my own which helped me tune the printer more to suit my needs (I use Octoprint so really don't need the LCD screen / options) along with enable some features I wanted as well as disable other features I didn't want. Overall this took longer than installing the mainboard but now I have a 3D printer that works exactly as I want. On the back of my successful upgrade to my Ender 3 Max I bought another along with a touchscreen for my Ender 5 Plus, this was slightly more involved from an hardware perspective but the mainboard was also pretty easy to install. Again BTT did not have some pre-compiled firmware for my printer so I set about compiling my own which I've done several times now so was relatively straight forward. Within half a day I had gone from a very noisy 3D printer to a 3D printer that was near silent with the exception of the fans. I've been running both now for almost 2 years without any problems relating to the mainboard and recently made the jump to Klipper on the Ender 5 Plus, this board works really well with Klipper and so far I'm loving the features that Klipper unlocks. If you have a printer that isn't the latest (K1 / E3 V3 / P1 / A1 / X1-C) style then this is a great way to update an old 3D printer!

I love BTT boards for upgrading my 3d printers, they have a solid feature set, decent stepper drivers, are nice and quiet , and for me have been very reliable over the years. Picked up the V3 mini to go in an ender 5 pro so that I can add dual Z axis, but there are a few issues (which can all be worked around) you should be aware of. Firstly and the biggest issue, is that if you want to use a BL or CR touch for Z homing, the 5 pin header on the board DOES NOT WORK when using all 5 pins. Neither the precompiled BTT firmware provided by BTT themselves on GitHub or compiling yourself using the latest Marlin will work - the probe won't stop the bed crashing into the hotend. The only way around this is to recrimp the wires on your BL Touch to be a 3pin + 2pin JST, and plug the 3pin into the 5pin BL Touch header on the board, and plug the 2pin (black & white cables) into the Z endstop header. Z homing will then work perfectly. I spent hours trouble shooting this, it's been reported on GitHub as an open issue, it simply doesn't work using only the 5pin Secondly when using an ender printer the hotend fan isn't terminated in a JST 2pin header, as the stock board has a dedicated terminal for directly wiring it up. This isn't present on the V3 mini, so you will have to crimp your own header to allow plugging into the fan headers. Also from a Marlin standpoint, BTT haven't provided ANY settings for people that want to compile their own firmware, and haven't provided any fresh firmwares based on the latest Marlin releases - the most recent release is over a year old. It's also not yet officially supported by Marlin with their example configs in the stable release channel, although there are some configs in the current nightly builds - these aren't flawless however and I've still had to tweak them to get everything working nicely. It'd be a lot easier if BTT would open source what changes/settings are needed for Marlin, rather than only providing precompiled firmware. Also as mentioned above their BL Touch firmwares for Z safe homing DO NOT WORK, your bed WILL smash into the hotend.

Gosh, it's been a minute since I bought and installed this board into my Ender 3 Pro. It was a simple process of swapping out the original board, no wiring modifications were needed. Initially, I flashed a custom build of Marlin onto it as I wanted a few extra bits that weren't included in the BTT build on their GitHub page. Recently, however, I installed a CR Touch for Auto Bed Levelling (again, a simple addition to this board) and used the BBT BL-Touch build and it works perfectly - although it does probe the bed quite slowly and in a 5x5 grid which takes just over 3 minutes. I may recompile a custom build in the future to speed the ABL up. The board runs the stepper motors almost silently. I'm able to increase my print speed from 50mm/s to around 120mm/s with only very minor finish quality issues, anything faster and the defects/artefacts get more pronounced and take more post-processing. All in all it's been very stable and very quick. A huge improvement on the stock board & with the addition of ABL, it's increased the usability of the printer. Although not necessary, I may invest in the accompanying touchscreen upgrade for its extra functionality and Full-sized SD card slots.

I love the board its literally silent which was the reason I bought it and it has been brilliant however... the board suddenly lost all power and will not even power up now, nothing has moved I have not touched the board/wiring since installing it over 6 months ago. so as you do I contacted the seller to warranty it and that's where the nightmare began. I was greeted with a message asking me to tear the system to bits and go poking around the pins with a multimeter and swapping jumpers about as well as telling me to run it on a 5v psu which i do not know how to do and am not qualified to do like most people would not be, the board has died and im being made to jump through absurd hoops to get it sorted, lets say you have a samsung smart phone that has broken down so you call to warranty it but then your asked in order to get a replacement/repair you have to start taking it apart and poking around the components with a multimeter... is this acceptable? i think not, i do not own a 5v psu, my extruder/hotend is 24v and the heat bed is 24v. I am not a highly skilled electrician i have a base knowledge of electronics and this not the service a buyer expects but still the seller persist in repeating the original message over and over in a suspected attempt to make me give up on a solution to this problem so a replacement/refund is not given. It was bought as a drop in replacement for its silent drivers no fancy wiring or mods of any kind, the wiring was correct and the board has run perfectly for over 6 months which proved the wiring is correct as i say it was just a replacement for the loud creality board. This problem with the seller in now about 16 days old and i see no solution or help on the way any time soon so it looks like Il have to either swallow the £50 loss or report this seller to amazon to see if can get my money back, if you want one then buy it off a reputable seller and don't take the gamble with this one its really not worth it whatsoever... you have been warned folks

Bought this after I killed my old CR-10 Melzi board trying to install a BL touch sensor and wow what a difference. Although i'm no stranger to electronics and cabling, I am at best an enthusiastic dabbler, and was a little worried that replacing the board would be beyond my skill. I needn't have worried. The board slots in perfectly - all the slots and holes line up. I had to look up some of the wiring abbreviations but swapping over the existing wires was pretty straight forward with the pdf's from the website. The only thing to note was that the two case fans need to be connected up to a JST connector (on the CR-10 the wires are into screw terminals on the board) - but this again was relatively straightforward. The firmware was not so straight forwards - BTT do provide firmware you can use for the Ender 3 & 5, but this wasn't right for my CR-10 (bed size, etc were wrong). I did download the source code, but its a very long way out of date. In the end, I used the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files from the BTT source code and merged them with the latest Marlin firmware, and it eventually compiled. It's also worth noting that there are some additional bits of the firmware code you have to comment out to get it to work properly with a bl touch clone. That was a bit of a faff, but a couple of hours and some searches on the internet were all it took to get things up and running. Overall - its a really good upgrade, and the printer has never worked so well (or so quietly). The difference just in the noise from the stepper motors is incredible. If you are thinking of upgrading (or have blown up your previous board) I can definitely recommend getting this board - especially as it turns up within 24 hours of ordering.

I got a second hand Ender 3(1st gen, at least 8 years old) did a bit of tinkering and modding as it was my first 3D printer, the person who owned the printer before me had the previous version of the board installed. With my tinkering I fried the fan part of the board and I am no where ready to solder, Thought I may as well change the board and upgrade the firmware while I was at it, This board was easy to change and upgrade firmware (youtube and google search go hand in hand with the instructions)