eKL USB Switch Selector 4 Computers in Sharing 2 USB Devices Out Controller USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse Keyboard PCs Scanner Printer with Button Swapping and 4 Pack USB A to B Cable

Allows me you use my keyboard & mouse plus my printer shared between 4 computers. Sets up quickly and no problems after a couple of weeks. Lights easily show which computer is selected. They supply 4 cables ... a nice touch.

You can directly switch to each of the 4 computers with a SINGLE button press. Most other switches require you cycle through the other hosts pressing the button one at a time until you get to the one you want. This one has 4 buttons, press the button for the host you want and you are done. No cycling through. I'm only using 3 hosts. Any other device I'd have to push the button 3 times to get to the previous host. I tend to switch between only 2 hosts. So being able to switch between them quickly is helpfpul. Came with 4 good sized USB cables to connect to your hosts. Only downside is that from an angle the blue light bleeds and makes it look like the nearby hosts are also active. So the first few days you have to look directly from above to figure out which one is active. But I quickly memorize which buttons map to which computers and if the mouse doesn't work on the computer I want it to - I just tap the button for the one I want - having memorized my 3 locations I no longer refer to the lights at all. Might even be useful to just have no lights.

I have this switching a keyboard and a mouse among 4 computers. It works fine, although the 1 button being on the right takes a little getting used to. Two things you need to know: the 1 port is the default and if the device doesn't detect traffic for a few minutes, it will swap back to the default port. This is a minor annoyance with no clear way to adjust it. The other thing is the LEDs that light just above the buttons are blue, which might be difficult to see, especially in bright areas. They also shine through the other holes, e.g. LED 1 will shine through the hole for LED 2, etc. This is also a minor annoyance and can be fixed by taking off the cover and putting in 3 small strips of cardboard and two pieces of tape. This took all of 5 minutes, and 1 minute of that was spent finding my small screwdriver. A piece of scrap cardboard, some clear tape, and a pair of scissors to cut the cardboard to size. Pure cost-cutting and for dumb reasons that make the device more difficult to use than it needs to be. All told, I'm pretty happy with this so far, especially now that I've fixed the LED "problem". Edit to add: after using this for 6+ months now, mine has started "randomly" dropping and then immediately re-adding connections. So I'll be typing along on and get the Windows "lost device" tweedle. wait a second, and then the Windows "added device" tweedle sounds from my PC and I can type again (I'm sharing a keyboard and a wireless mouse among 4 PCs). This is getting progressively more annoying, but then what do you expect for this inexpensive a device?! It also seems to be related to mouse activity, but I can't prove that yet. Buyer beware.

Works exactly as advertised. I use it to switch my Keyboard and Mouse input between two computers. I have separate monitors for each computer and did not want two sets of mouse and keyboard. This KVM does the job. Solid heavy construction and very tactile clicky buttons. Only complaint is that the eKL sticker is peeling off. That does not matter to me though. There is about a 1 second switch time. By this I mean it takes about 1 second from pressing the button to the time that the inputs are changed and usable. This is very standard and works like a charm.

This product worked well for a month for my wireless keyboard/mouse setup between three computers. Everything simply worked at the click of the button. In the past few days, this has not been the case. The mouse stutters and freezes movement across the screen, making it very frustrating to control. While typing, letters will "hang" and begin typing out words like thiiiiiiiissssss. Not only would the letters freeze like that, then it would simply stop functioning for a few seconds, before starting to sporadically work again. Once I removed the switch from the equation, everything worked perfectly again - This was not due to signal interference. Coincidentally enough, it is now outside my return window, so I can't even return this now useless hunk of metal. At least it will make a decent paperweight.

I've been using this little box for 4 months with no problems at all. I have 4 computers (pc, mac mini, mac laptop, linux) and switch among them with the pushbuttons (I don't care about hotkeys). The box does not switch a display, so I simultaneously use a pushbutton on my single display (which has 4 video inputs). It's quick, unless one of the computers is in sleep mode, in which case I have to tap the keyboard and wait a few seconds while it wakes up (just as you must do anyway). I don't seem to have any problems with computers losing track of the keyboard or mouse when switched away. Nice little product, good price.

I purchased this switch to replace an existing USB/KM switch I have from IOGear. That switch only connects to 2 systems and I needed something that would allow me to switch between at least 3 systems. The box itself is well constructed and it generally met my needs; however, there was a problem with the USB-A ports on the front of it where keyboards can be plugged in. The USB receiver for my Logitech mouse and keyboard, could not be inserted and removed easily from the port. This was not a problem with the IOGear switch. When inserted, the receiver must not have been making contact with the USB contacts because it would only stay connected intermittently. Once disconnected, I would need to move the receiver or put pressure on it to cause it to reconnect. Repeatedly having to adjust the receiver was untenable, and I believe that it was causing damage to the usb contacts because afterward, the receiver occasionally disconnected from my computers when directly inserted. This is something that had not happened before using the new switch, and I regularly plugged it into the computers directly. Just to be sure, I returned one switch for another of the same model: same problem. I was about ready to return it, but I couldn't find an alternative that suited my needs as well as this one. I decided to try the receiver with an extension cable. Like the receiver, the fit for this extension cable was very tight, but I figured that if it would damage a cable instead of the receiver, it would be less of a problem. Plus, I could still remove the receiver, which fit properly into the cable, without additional damage. Unfortunately, there were still connection problems with the cable, although it didn't disconnect as frequently. I guessed that perhaps the damage to the receiver might have been worse than expected. To resolve, I ordered a new Logitech Unifying Receiver and new USB extension cables https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXZQSCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. These cables fit well into the ports, not suffering from the problems I had with the initial receiver or cable. The switch now performs flawlessly, without problems with disconnection. Overall, I think this is a nice switch with solid construction. It's too bad that a small flaw in the port assembly may result in connection problems and the potential for damage to the USB connector on accessories. I wouldn't directly plug in a storage device to this switch for fear of data loss. Fortunately, I have found a viable option for using it with my Keyboard/Mouse, and potentially some other accessories.

It comes in a dinky looking box, but it has the cables you need, it has a decent heft so it doesn't slide around too much, and best of all, it works! It just seems to be of a higher quality than I expected for the price. I have a monitor with multiple inputs (HDMI and DP) so I can switch between computers, but it doesn't have any sort of USB switching. So I got this thing. I picked this one over many of the others because they used funky USB-A to USB-A cables, meaning you couldn't just use an off the shelf cable if you wanted something shorter or longer.