ideaspark® ESP32 Development Board 16MB Integrated 1.9 inch ST7789 170x320 TFT LCD Display,WiFi+BL Wireless Module,CH340 Driver USB Type-C for Arduino Micropython

Nice ESP32 with a display that works with stock Arduino libraries. LVGL not needed. I use this in many different projects that need to display few numbers.

Lots of fun projects to run on this board. If you have used esp32 before, this is a walk in the park. Makes a great nano miner for mining bitcoin too, found the project on github. I would recommend this for anyone who likes to tinker with electronics.

Great little gadget to have fun with.

Ok I have been having a problem with this board becasue GPIO2 Shares the WIFI with the DC on the Display Port. After working a day and a 1/2 with ChatGPT, we have found a work around that is not hard to fix. When doing your sketch you need to run the WIFI command first and then do the display work after it connects, if you do not do this the display locks up and the board goes into constant reboots. Here is an example. // ✅ WiFi FIRST (CRITICAL for your board) WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); WiFi.setSleep(false); WiFi.begin(ssid, password); Serial.print("Connecting to WiFi"); while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) { delay(500); Serial.print("."); } Serial.println(); Serial.println("WiFi Connected"); // ✅ Lock GPIO2 AFTER WiFi is done with it pinMode(2, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(2, HIGH); // ✅ Backlight pinMode(32, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(32, HIGH); // ✅ Display init AFTER WiFi tft.init(); tft.setRotation(1); tft.fillScreen(TFT_BLACK); tft.setTextColor(TFT_YELLOW, TFT_BLACK); tft.setTextSize(2); tft.setCursor(10, 10); tft.println("WiFi OK"); tft.println(WiFi.localIP()); Chat GPT also had me add a 10K Ohm resister between the 3.3v pin and the D2 pin WiFi briefly pulls GPIO2 into unstable states during RF startup The 10kΩ pull-up keeps DC from floating Keeps the display in DATA mode instead of random COMMAND mode Prevents the freeze most of the time Now to be honest, I did this before we tried the code to start WIFI first, so you may not need this. But with this board D2 being tied to the WIFI and the display was a bad Hardware mistake. The displays DC should have been tied to pin D16 or something that is not tied to the wifi. Needless to say the board works great now after figuring that out.

Looks good and when you connect it it has the same image shown in the picture. I’m still learning how to code so getting this thing plugged in and running is a win for me. No distortion seem on screen and the colors look good.

My brother purchased one of these boards, but had problems with it, because most of the components were not soldered. Out of curiosity, I purchased one as well. Mine booted as expected. I followed the instructions in the product images, and changed the image to my own image. I loaded the original factory program. All of the basic functions worked. However, my first real test was to attach a BME280 sensor and display the readings on the screen. I have used this sensor before, so I know it works. Wired the sensor to the default I2C pins (SDA: GPIO21, SCL: GPIO22) and could not get the sensor to work. When I removed the code for the display, which should be using SPI, the sensor worked without issue. I changed the I2C pins (SDA: GPIO12, SCL: GPIO14) and now the display and sensor work without issue. Since SPI and I2C are completely different, it didn't make sense that changing I2C pins allowed me to use both protocols. Looking at the pinout shows the default I2C pins are adjacent to the SPI pins used for the display. I checked continuity between the pins and found that GPIO22 and GPIO23 are connected. I looked at the solder joint, and they are indeed connected. Using a very small solder tip, I was able to fix the solder joint without removing the screen. I spent two evenings troubleshooting this board, but it works now...I think. Who knows what other solder issues I will find. ---UPDATE--- If the board has a boost module and/or battery charge circuit, they do not work. The screen operates at a much different brightness when on battery (3.7V) versus USB (5V). Battery connected to module does not charge when also connected to USB. So far (Jan 2025), I have yet to hear from the seller/manufacturer regarding specific board questions. Also, I have yet to find circuit diagrams. For these reasons, I am dropping my review to a single star. ---=== 2026-01-20 UPDATE ===--- I ended up getting a second one of these (don't ask), and I am returning it because C9 (I think) is broken. This is very disappointing. Also, 1 year later, and no communication from the vendor/manufacturer. Review will stay at 1 star.

I bought a couple of these and had only the usual difficulty plugging the module into a standard solderless breadboard. Getting all 30 pins inserted into a breadboard, particularly a new one, takes patience, but the pin spacing is correct so this is no worse than any other ESP32. The module is wide enough that to make connections to the GPIO pins it's easiest to combine two breadboards, side by side (see photo). I've gotten the display working with the Adafruit TFT libraries and look forward to using the display for viewing real time trace messages of what's going on inside the ESP32. This should be a big help in debugging and, with 16MB of flash, there will be room for lots and lots of code. Or, maybe, have a couple of these around the house to show real-time status of the home security system I'm going to build. Someday soon ....

I got this one to address color displays; As all Heltec I try, this one is not left behind. Heltec has its way to deal with the display and the battery status as well as with some other libraries that allows management of sensors and outputs; as soon as you are familiar with it, it is as good as any ESP32 board in the market. I like the level of integration.