Whiteline W53377A Control Arm Bushing, Black

I've used these before in a mk4 jetta and as I had to do another rear axle bushing job on another mk4 (what an absolute joy, btw lmao) I used the same ones. Work really well and hold up good, make sure you get extra polyurethane grease though, they never give you enough with these things regardless the brand.

Rebuilding the front end of my 98 Tacoma with 160k miles on it. Since I was putting new struts on, it seemed like a good time to replace the lower control arm bushings. The job is very doable, but don't try to use a press or bottle jack to push out the factory bushings. Cut them out with a saws-all. Cut off the end with the exposed liner. Then use a hole saw to cut out the center bushing. Then go back to the saws-all and make a cut, inboard, into the bushing liner. Don't cut too deep. Cut just enough so you can beat the liner/bushing out with a chisel. It sounds more complicated than it is. I tried the press. Not a chance. I was about to give up and order new LCA's, when I thought 'what do I have to lose?' The Whiteline's went in without any drama. Truck is riding great.

fter installing these bushings my truck rides and handles so much better it is almost a dream. Installing them was easy. I used a ball joint bearing press I bought for $40.00 here on amazon but I could have used my vice. I've read on 4runner forums these bushings will squeek after a while so I greased the heck out of with wheel bearing grease and so far they are fine. I've been in mud, sand and dirt with them installed an no noise at all yet. I suggest these bushings over oem or any other brand out there. Especially after using cheap bushings like moog or ac delco. Pay the extra 10-20 bucks and you will be extremly happy.

The quality of this product is well built and easy to install. Fitment is top notched

Those old LCA rubber bushings can wear out and if you have the common 3.4l valve cover gasket leak or any oil leak for that matter then oil that seeps down on your stock rubber bushings can deteriorate them further. My I replaced my LCA bushings for this reason. This kit seems like a quality kit and the bushings / hardware seem also good of quality. Whiteline is known to have good stuff. Since there isn't any way to really grease these after you put them on so grease the heck out of the ID of the bushings and the OD of the inner sleeve to prevent any squeaking. Go ahead and get you some of the superlube 41150 "synthetic multi-purpose grease" to install these bushings. They include some bushing grease in this kit but I don't think it's even close to enough of what you'd want. Can't speak of the longevity of these bushings but so far I am happy with them. Over about 60 MPH in my 1998 4runner I have had a lot of vibrations in my steering wheel. These new bushings fixed that. These are the ones recommended by Timmy the toolman in his lower control arm bushings replacement video so I trust these are a good product

After reading and watching many different tutorials and guides on how to change the LCA bushings on my 2000 Tacoma 4WD, I decided to go with these by Whiteline. It seems that all of the other brands require you to cut and burn your old bushings out, leaving the outer metal part of the factory bushings inside the LCA. These replace the entire factory bushing. I removed all of the bolts for the steering rack, and the outer tie-rods from the steering knuckles. Doing one side at a time, I was able to just lift the rack up and get the rear cam bolts out. When I had the LCA removed, I put it on the ground and used a mechanical bottle jack from a chevy silverado to press the old bushings out. The factory toyota jack might have worked, but the chevy jack was out already. Put the jack inside the LCA and press one side all the way out. I didn't cut anything. I didn't heat anything. Granted, this is an AZ truck, so there wasn't a ton of rust anywhere. That will push out the rubber part, the inner metal part, and the outer metal bushing, all in once piece. When the bushings popped, they bounced a few feet, so don't do this with it pointing at your china cabinet. Lube the inside of the new bushings and push the metal pipe thing inside. Now you have a complete bushing ready to go back in your truck. I used a vice to squeeze it in, with a block of hardwood with a hole cut in it as a receiving cup (so the vice isn't pushing on the rubber on both sides, fighting against you). I used a large pair of water-pump pliers to make sure the other side of the vice was pushing on the metal outer part, not the rubber. This was a bit of a pain, especially since my vice wasn't bolted down, and I was doing it all myself. The next bit of a pain was getting the large washers installed when the LCA was back in the truck frame. I'm super happy with the job, and I saved $800 from what the local shop wanted in labor costs.

Installed myself, after I had two sets of Chinese grade (acdelco) and mevotech replacement bushing turn to play dough in less than an oil change, so far it’s been 5000 miles and there is no play in these bushings. Finally think my front end is done being taken apart. Could have come with more grease but overall good.

Installed in a 2000 4Runner. Much better and easier than Energy Suspension bushings that I bought first and much beer quality too. Came with plenty of silicon grease too. I recommend spending more for these because my time is worth more than the price difference and these are of much better quality. I recommend.

Went on easy , 1997 Toyota 4Runner

now have 2 years on these bushings and they are still tight and have never once squeaked or made any noise at all.

as expected by Whiteline. while I was redoing all my suspension, figured no better time than to change out the lower control arm bushings. the only issue I had was trying to stuff the washers in the passenger front of the lower, no way she was goin in. not whitelines issue. alignment shop got em stuffed in while doin the alignment! used the bottle jack trick and loads of heat to get old ones out

This fit perfect on my 1996 4runner. You might have to spend some time getting the old ones out. If you can't press out the old bushings out from the outer sleeve what I did was press the inner sleeve, the rubber part came out with it. I then took a sawzall and did a cut in the outer metal sleeve and all 4 came out with ease using a hammer & chisel. A few videos out there that explain this process. Overall great replacement as i've read they last a long time and are way more affordable than OEM.

Good quality. Fit well. I can’t comment on durability or squeeze yet since they have only been on there for a short while