EASYGUARD PKE Car Alarm System Proximity lock unlock Push Button Start Remote engine Start Keyless Go system DC12V EC003N-K-1

I am very pleased with this product. I will say that you should 100% have a wiring manual for your car before attempting this. I installed in a Honda Del Sol and I already had the "Electrical Troubleshooting" Book for the car. It was invaluable for this installation. I easily found every wire I needed by connector and color. Installation could be very difficult if you aren't adept with these kind of installs and especially if you don't have a wiring diagram.(Side note: I was fortunate to have salvaged a harness for the easyguard from the pick-n-pull. (This is in-fact how I discovered easyguard - from a junked del sol.) The salvaged easyguard was not the PKE version so I bought a new one on Amazon, but the harness was a direct plug in from the EC003 to my car. I think there is a company that sells these harnesses. You don't need it, but it made the install soooo much easier.)Back to review:I did not need remote start (and would NEVER recommend it for a manual transmission, just too dangerous if the car is in gear) The documentation does not say, but from another review found that you do not need to connect the hand brake wire, or the fuel-pump wire if you don't want remote start. So my review is not for remote start, but I'm 100% certain it would be amazing too.The Good:1. I thought the instructions for installation were terrific overall. Very very comprehensive and mostly well written.2. The PKE works wonders. Oh, the joy of not needing to pull a key out to use my old 1994 Honda Civic del Sol.3. It does have built in alarm and can be connected to the horn, or a siren.4. Antenna range has not been a problem even though I mounted all the antennas behind the door trim at the top of the door panels at the base of the left side and rear window trim. (I was worried since they are mounted 1-2" away from metal.)5. Remote start is an option (I'm not using)The fob has a good quality feel to it. As good as a factory system. The panic button is a bit easy to press though.The Weird:1. The system is set to flash turn signals whenever a door is opened. And it keeps flashing for about 15 seconds. Even when the car is running. I guess it's a safety thing? I'm used to it now, but weird. Should be able to disable this. This may be the only thing I'm unhappy with since I can't really fix it without losing the flashing on arm/disarm.The Bad:1. If you close the door with car running (or just in "on" state), you WILL be locked out in approx. 10 seconds when the car auto-locks. If your key happens to be inside the car you won't be getting back in. If not, you will be fishing your key out of your pocket to unlock the door. (I made a relay circuit that blocks the lock signal when the hand brake is pulled to keep this from happening. Put a question in the listing and I'll post the info)2. Documentation is ambiguous on how to disable the "arm/disarm" BEEP. Hint: the 'start' button referred to is on the remote and not the actual start engine button.3. System incessantly locks and unlocks randomly while you are working on it. Even if you leave the fob in the car. (Doesn't do this when running though) (use the PKE disable feature to stop this when working around the car)4. You have to press the brake pedal to STOP the engine? Oh that's dumb. (I wired mine to the clutch signal anyway since you must press that to start anyway, then I designed a latching relay to keep the wire active once car is started. Ask a question if you want details). So my engine stops when I press the button even if the pedals are not touched, the way it should.5. You don't need the fob to start/steal the car if you know where the "reset" button is. (hide it very well!)!!!!!!! UPDATE: I don't know why I didn't discover this problem earlier. If you disable the PKE and then leave the car unlocked it is the same as LEAVING the keys in the ignition. (you have to intentionally lock with the button if PKE is not active). Car starts with no key in car in that state. I don't know why I assumed the PKE would ping the remote before allowing to start but it doesn't. Just be aware that if the system is not in "locked" state, the car can be started. !!!!!!!!!another bad: Don't lose your fob. I'm hoping I can get a replacement without having to purchase a whole new system.Overall, this system is a dream as long as you know the quirks. This is an enhancement to an old car that doesn't have keyless entry and start. So you can't expect perfection. But if you get it properly installed you will very much like this system.

La verdad muy buena alarma muy recomendable se la puse a mi camioneta np300 y funciona de maravilla con el modulo funciona muy bien la comodidad de arrancarla con el botón igual se desactiva al acercarte y se desactiva al alejarte con el control la verdad muy recomendable saludos la verdad sin duda magnífica alarma

Instalacion facil, todo funciona a la perfeccion...

Muy difícil de programar, si te quedas dentro del auto el sentir te dectecta y se ponen y bajan los sefuros a cada rato, no la recomiendo!!

I bought this six years ago for a different project vehicle but changed directions and just installed this summer in a 1990 Chevy G20. Installation was almost as easy as a car stereo- the only hard part is identifying the right wire colors for your vehicle. It works great and it's a real blast to have key fob control over a 35 year old van!Instructions were very clear- only issue was that I had to connect the green wire to ignition rather than 12V constant. Also the Chevy had "type A" positive lock control. The instructions addressed this possibility well, but included one relay and I needed two. Not a big deal.Overall I would not hesitate to buy again- in fact at this price I might buy a backup, not least because you can pair you up to four fobs.I think I've read/watched all of the installation guidance on this and it seems like most of the problems are sloppy installs, so here are a few tips:- If you live in an area with scrapyards, the easiest and least destructive way to do this would absolutely be to cut out the ignition column harnesses from a donor vehicle and then just wire to those and plug them in. That'll cover most/most important wires.-The second easiest way (and the rest of the wires) would be if you can access the back of your fuse panel and tap in there.-Be sure your 12V constant and ground are really solid. Just use the same ones your manufacturer did. I tried running off the constant from the headlight switch at first and had problems.- Mechanics hate T-taps, and they can cause problems if installed improperly. You can scrape the insulation off a harness wire with a utility knife, separate copper stands with a pick, then splice and solder. Takes a minute or two per connection. I cover with liquid tape, then electrical tape, then Tesa. Electrical tape alone will get old and fall off over time.- One thing this kit will teach you is that these vehicles are easy to hotwire, and you'll probably be leaving the key in the ignition for the steering lock. Consider installing your own kill switch.