NEXAS NexLINK Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Car - Check Engine Light Code Reader with Live Data & Performance Test, Wireless Diagnostic Scan Tool with Resets for All US Vehicles, Works with iOS Android

I use the OBD Fusion app for iOS and this Nexas NexLink scanner is on the list of OBD Fusion’s officially recommended scan devices. Pro tip: in the OBD fusion settings, make sure to set the communication type to Bluetooth LE (screenshot). Note that you do not set this up in the iOS Bluetooth settings menu but directly in the app of your choosing (highly recommend OBD Fusion as well). The Initial connection was relatively quick and subsequently connects with ease. I’ve had other OBD2 scanners that connect over WiFi, which requires you to join the network the scanner broadcasts from your phone’s WiFi menu. Which is way more of a hassle. This scanner does what it’s intended to do and does it very well. I highly recommend it for anyone looking to get more data from their vehicle, from real-time performance metering to diagnostics.

Does your Prius beep while in reverse? Are you annoyed and more distracted by that? I was too! I didn’t want to go to a dealership and pay for them to turn that beeping off and I didn’t want to bug my brother (a mechanic), so I purchased this. Downloaded the Dr. Prius app and turned that beeping off. Now my Prius beeps once when put in reverse.

It’s exactly what I needed on this time

iphone 15, ios v26.1. device connects, works for ~ 1 min, then communication error. Have to unplug device, replug, reconnect. reached out to Nexas tech support. Told me in both emails DO NOT pair in iPhone Bluetooth settings, to which I answered, I DID NOT pair in iphone settings. I followed instructions, paired in "OBD Fusion (paid version)." I'm moving on to another OBD scanner. My troubleshooting steps included purchasing a new NexLINK - same behavior, followed by purchase of different brand - Vgate iCar Pro 2S Bluetooth OBD2 Code Reader, which works flawlessly.

This NEXAS NexLink OBD2 adapter does work and does what is advertised. It does have a genuine elm327 v2.x (as stated by others), please see pics. It also does contain a Bluetooth 5.0 module (BM78SPP05NC2) but based on its datasheet you cannot interact with it through the UART path to set PIN or the options. The look of the unit is good, fitment is tight (very tight seems), plug fitment is tight/good. Now with all this said, why did I remove a star…well look at the pictures. See if you go through all the reviews you’ll see a few that talked about sudden failures, well I read those before I bought and decided (since it was sold at a discount during the holiday season) that I’d take mine apart to see what could be the issue, before I dared plug it into my car. I also checked the connection between the battery and ground pins on the adapter with a multimeter, both ohms and diode mode tests were good. So it’s not shorted from the factory. To open the unit, take a flat-bladed screwdriver and place some tape on the edge, put the flat blade on the seam and push hard into the plastic bottom part of the seam (black obd2 connector to your left). If you push hard just under the seam and the clip will start to separate, then you can get into the seam and twist your blade. It’s all clips, no screws, or adhesive. You can see it open in my attached pictures. Now take a good look at them, you’ll see a glaring assembly issue. There are two circuit boards (PCBs) and they connect at by forming a “T” with solder. Theses tracks are both communication and structural. Well as you can clearly see from the pictures, some of these “joints” are very poor, like a glancing touch of solder. Please note, not ALL pins have tracks that are meant to be connected! So only tracks that meet at both PCBs were supposed to be soldered, same for pins not soldered. Now inside a car, there is vibration and so some of these could break very easily. On top of that one of the worst (because it’s hidden under components) was (Pin 16) the 12V incoming power connection! That breaks…well…no more power. I have pics of before and after my repair. The most critical is well hidden (Pin 16) so I had to carefully sneak into the corner to wick and resolder it. Afterwards it’s much better, much stronger, and when tested it in my car, it worked just fine. So at the end of all this, what did all this accomplish? Well, for one now the merchant knows there is an assembly issue (final assembly only, board soldering seemed good). Also the buyers know as well that if your unit “dies” then likely it’s just a cracked solder joint and can be repaired (you likely don’t need to throw it away). I wish this didn’t use a common Bluetooth pairing PIN, but whatever. Also for people who say it’s slow, well…I guess you’re right. The Bluetooth chip datasheet claims the LE data rate will NEVER exceed 7 kbps…that’s SLOWER than a 9600 baud serial connection. On top of that (unless it’s using a 1 Mbps internal UART connection…which I doubt) the datasheet claims that if the internal UART is using 115,200 baud with a traditional BR/EDR connection it will never be higher than 10 kbps, which is basically still as fast as 9600. Now this can be a good or bad thing, for people trying to push the comms to max and hope their ECU doesn’t miss a deadline…this is VERY slow, most people would want at least 38,400 baud or maybe 115,200 baud. However at those speeds you need better handshake/flow control and you need to be careful not to overwhelm the ECU of the car while driving. But using basically 9,600 is so slow you cannot overwhelm the ECU and you often don’t need special “chunking” to read the serial port data due to speed mismatches for the ECU reply to the serial poll/trigger rate. But that means…once you go beyond maybe two simple gauges…you’re going too slow for anything approaching real time. So be aware that this isn’t for those wanting 5-7 real-time gauges. I wanted more like temps, gear position, and fuel level and such…not data that needs fast polling, so I’m okay. Boost and pressure and RPM…go to USB or serial…not wireless. It’s not fast enough (for a reason). Can I recommend this product? Well, if you want better encryption, this really is the only one, regardless of the assembly issues. I’m certainly satisfied with the product, especially for the price. So I guess, now that you know all this, you can make a better informed decision. Love the color by way…really what drew me to it.

I had a kiwi Bluetooth scanner years ago that I ran on all my cars, trucks, and motorcycles. Lost it in a move a couple years ago. Bought a couple different ones from local auto parts stores, all claiming to be elm compatible but none worked on my bike. Found this one via a google search and not only did it say it worked on bikes but it was the cheapest of all of them. Got it in the mail Friday, took the seat off my bike and plugged it in, and it just straight up worked. No hiccups, no problems. Just works. Now I can run dash command on my phone and check all kinds of stuff and see what’s going on. Saved me from taking bike to dealership once already and I’ve only had it a couple days.

Came immediately, works great! Good price.

Works for dr Prius other than that it’s ok for the price compared to my $130 obd2 scanner there isn’t really any apps that I liked that had good features