--- product_id: 1592531 title: "(255-313) 1/2\" Twist-On Pipe Strainer" brand: "shurflo" price: "C$861" currency: NIO in_stock: true reviews_count: 13 category: "Shurflo" url: https://www.desertcart.ni/products/1592531-255-313-1-2-twist-on-pipe-strainer store_origin: NI region: Nicaragua --- # Clear strainer basket for quick debris inspection 1/2" NPSM twist-on thread for secure fit Lightweight 1.76 oz plastic build for easy handling (255-313) 1/2" Twist-On Pipe Strainer **Brand:** shurflo **Price:** C$861 **Availability:** ✅ In Stock ## Summary > 🚿 Keep your water flowing flawlessly—because your RV deserves the best! ## Quick Answers - **What is this?** (255-313) 1/2" Twist-On Pipe Strainer by shurflo - **How much does it cost?** C$861 with free shipping - **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship - **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.ni](https://www.desertcart.ni/products/1592531-255-313-1-2-twist-on-pipe-strainer) ## Best For - shurflo enthusiasts ## Why This Product - Trusted shurflo brand quality - Free international shipping included - Worldwide delivery with tracking - 15-day hassle-free returns ## Key Features - • **Durable & Lightweight:** Robust plastic construction balances strength with minimal added weight—perfect for mobile setups. - • **Effortless Installation:** Twist-on design ensures a quick, tool-free upgrade to your RV or boat plumbing. - • **Maintenance Made Simple:** Clear strainer basket offers instant visual access, reducing downtime and hassle. - • **Optimized Pump Protection:** Prevents debris and air leaks that can damage your pump, extending its lifespan and performance. - • **Pro-Level Plumbing Upgrade:** Trusted #1 Industrial Plumbing T Strainer with 4.6-star rating from 8,000+ pros—join the elite users who never compromise. ## Overview The SHURFLO 255-313 1/2" Twist-On Pipe Strainer is a lightweight, durable plastic strainer designed to protect RV and boat water pumps from debris and air leaks. Featuring a clear basket for easy maintenance and a secure NPSM twist-on thread, it’s a top-rated plumbing upgrade favored by professionals and enthusiasts alike for its reliability and ease of installation. ## Description Great Product Review: Complete install guide. Excellent product. Necessary RV upgrade (plus accumulator) - Put this strainer near your inlet to your Shurflo or other brand pump. I DO NOT recommend threading this directly on the pump head, because the pump head is soft thermoplastic, and you are better off following the directions below. Also get an accumulator (Shurflo part, about $44). Together, they make a solid, easy and I think, necessary, addition to your RV plumbing. My suggestions: if your pump is next to your tank, and you have a system that permits this, and has a floor-level outlet on the tank, here is a step-by-step: First phase: Re-plumb from the floor-level outlet of your tank, because it usually has an internal strainer that backs-up garbage in the tank. With the tank empty, look for and REMOVE THE EXISTING TANK STRAINER. It will usually easily come out of the threaded hole your plumbing leaves the tank from. These break and are, for obvious reasons, difficult to clean, backing up an organic sludge, even if you have drained it previously. Do new plumbing. Assuming you have a floor-level tank outlet, 1/2" female thread: Prepare your new plumbing, by building with half of a galvanized union joint, to the end of a 10" plastic nipple, with teflon tape. This leaves an easy joint to hook up the rest of your plumbing later. Run the other end of the plastic nipple into the tank, again, removing any existing tank strainer first. Mount wood to the floor if needed to make the nipple run completely perpendicular to the tank outlet, no cross threading. Use a 1/2" o-ring to help seal the nipple into the tank. Do not overtighten! It's a lot less force than you use with your downstream plumbing fittings. Literally, hand-tight. I found mine crossthreaded easily if overtightened. In my case, I also had a tank on carpet, so I needed wood to level the nipple. Yes, carpeted in the tank area. Use heavy pipe straps (electrical section of hw store) to stabilize the nipple down to the floor. Second phase: Mate the other end of the galvanized union to a 3 to 4" metal nipple with teflon tape, then the other end of the nipple to a galvanized corner T. On mine, shooting off at a 90deg angle, was almost perfect to meet up with the drain hole. It also goes straight up, where you will install another union fitting and an elbow, and the strainer. Finish the floor-level corner T exit with another metal 5" nipple, brass valve, and exit pipe to drain to the outside. Don't add these phase 2 component to the first phase plumbing yet. Just kit everything together, being careful not to disturb the initial 1/2 plastic nipple and union. Although P1 should be mounted solidly down. From the riser part of the corner T, install a short metal nipple and now, a plastic union. I think these are nylon or tough plastic, and used in irrigation. Now you should be able to install, and mount, the phase 2 elbow T/drain, with its fittings, to the floor, solidly, again with wood and straps on the wood if needed to bring it to tank level, and connect it to the first union, the galvanized one. Using a galvanized metal union for the first, has better clearance than the larger plastic kind. Plus, except for the plastic nipple leaving the tank, you want this corner and it's connected pieces, to be galvanized (metal), as it is more rigid. Floor should not flex over the short distance. Use straps to mount Phase 2 to the floor, solidly, both before the elbow, and after to the drain. The half of a plastic union should be sticking straight up. Phase 3 Off the plastic union second part, attach a SCH40 elbow w TT. Use one with a male threaded end, and a female threaded end. Into the female end, screw the Shurflo 255-313 Strainer w TT. This way, there should be about 2-3 inches of clearance between the bottom of the clear strainer basket, and the floor. This makes it easy to remove the strainer basket without having to completely empty the tank. You should have to have about a half-full tank to maintenance the strainer. Add a short plastic nipple to the strainer outlet w TT. Add Phase 3 plumbing to the existing plumbing, being careful to only tighten the plastic union joint, and not stress the Phase 2 plumbing. Use a flexible line (ACE has these for about 5-6$, in 12-16" lengths) 1/2" FIP to 1/2" FIP, connect to the strainer outlet to the pump head. The pump can be sitting on the floor, on it's rubber feet. No telfon tape needed on the flexible hose, as it has rubber cone washers embedded in it, and not a ton of torque (BE CAREFUL with the soft pump head). These very flexible lines also greatly reduce vibration into the plumbing. I found that the Shurflo PUMP HEAD especially, is a crappy kind of thermoplastic. VERY SOFT. Much softer than the Twist-on Strainer. So in order to access the strainer basket and reduce stress on the pump fittings, do not screw strainer directly onto the pump. Outlet of the pump, you are going to use another 1/2 FIP to 1/2 FIP. First, build your accumulator: use another short plastic nipple, on one side of a Shurflo accumulator, the side facing towards the pump if you mounted the accumulator. Screw the nipple into the accumulator with teflon tape first, then mount the accumulator, THEN lastly use the 1/2" to 1/2" flexible hose to hook pump to accumulator. This allows you to easily move the pump around to an ideal location, and also, disconnect when changing things like the pump head pressure switch (when it fails). After the accumulator, continue your regular plumbing. Mount the accumulator with the shrader valve pointing up, if you can, to make sure that water completely drains when winterizing. I had the model with the metal bracket, not the one with the rubber feet. Review: Can easily fix air leakage problems on your boat or RV - We have had an intermittent water problem on our 400 Searay Sundancer boat for several years. Most of the time our water pump would work, then not or the water would trickle out of the faucets. We replaced the pump and the accumulator tank, but the problem would happen again, then be fine. We replaced the pump twice! When it did run, there was always air in the line. Based on the water tank level, there was never an actual water leak. The original strainer never had any debris in it. My opinion is this was all a result of hard water, where calcium build-up formed over many years in the threads of the strainer. My removing the strainer to check for clogs on the strainer allowed air in the system, sometimes if I threaded the strainer back on the calcium moved and the system worked until it built up again. Or I might have a hairline crack in the strainer. I installed this strainer in less than 10 minutes and water is running great. We have no pipes banging, no air just running great. I took the old strainer off and soaked it in CLR to dissolve mineral deposits and will keep for a spare. Lesson for me on all of this is there can be an air leakage on the intake side of the pump. I'm certain this is what happened to me. Unfortunately, before I realized this, I bought new pumps which had nothing to do with the problem. This was a simple inexpensive fix to a puzzling problem that has gone on for a long time costing me $$$ in pumps and accumulator tanks. ## Features - Great Product ## Technical Specifications | Specification | Value | |---------------|-------| | ASIN | B000V2W0GE | | Best Sellers Rank | #4,617 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #1 in Industrial Plumbing T Strainers | | Brand | SHURFLO | | Brand Name | SHURFLO | | Color | Black | | Connector Type | Adapter | | Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 8,039 Reviews | | Exterior Finish | Stainless Steel | | Global Trade Identification Number | 00752324009329 | | Included Components | Great Product | | Item Dimensions | 2.25 x 4.75 x 6.25 inches | | Item Type Name | Great Product | | Item Weight | 1.76 ounces | | Item dimensions L x W x H | 2.25 x 4.75 x 6.25 inches | | Manufacturer | Shurflo by Pentair | | Manufacturer Part Number | 255-313 | | Manufacturer Warranty Description | Warranty | | Material | Plastic | | Material Type | Plastic | | Model Number | 255-313 | | Number of Packs | 1 | | Number of Pieces | 1 | | Size | 1/2 Inch | | Thread Type | NPSM | | UPC | 752324009329 | | Unit Count | 1 Count | ## Product Details - **Brand:** SHURFLO - **Color:** Black - **Connector Type:** Adapter - **Exterior Finish:** Stainless Steel - **Item Weight:** 1.76 ounces - **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 2.25 x 4.75 x 6.25 inches - **Material:** Plastic - **Number of Pieces:** 1 - **Size:** 1/2 Inch - **Thread Type:** NPSM ## Images ![(255-313) 1/2" Twist-On Pipe Strainer - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/511SJ4Ryw7L.jpg) ## Available Options This product comes in different **Item Package Quantity** options. ## Questions & Answers **Q: how would this hook up to a washing machine inlet line? (i.e. what type of adapters would be needed for both sides..)** A: This Shurflo item is great for RV water delivery services, but totally inadaquate for washing machine service. Go to hardware store or Home Depot and buy a general water filter housing that takes 9 inch spun wound filters. If you get sand or grit into your RV water tank, it will settle to the bottom. The Shurflo strainer wouldn't see much of this coming through for long time, unless the fresh water tank is stirred up alot. When you lose your home water supply, then a lot of sediment in the utility "main" lines will be churned up on startup. Someone, somewhere has to flush these lines to remove the sediment, OR it just gets moved down the line and someone else suffers this problem. If your home is drawing water to the washing machine at the time these lines are activated, or until the sediment finds a resting place along the pipe route, an inline general 9 inch filter will keep dirty water from ruining your clothes inside the washing machine. In my subdivision, this has happened many times and I have two filters in series to stop ruining my clothes. I use the metal flexible washing machine hoses with 3/4" female connectors on each end. I buy 3/4" male hose connectors installed in each end of the filter housing. This setup will be more adaquate for your washing machine than the Shurflo strainer. **Q: How do I get a city connection regulator so the water flow is not so pressurized. Marian** A: Camco sells pressure limiters made of brass for less than $10. They are fitted for garden hose connectors. There's a few other companies that make them too. Pressure is set to about 30 lbs. I get mine at Walmart, but you can get them in RV parts places. I use one, and a Camco 'blue' water filter, and a Camco right-angle adapter to reduce stress on the fittings. A word of advice, based on my experiences, put the filter in-line before the pressure limiter. They have a small orifice and sand and dirt will ruin them. **Q: Is there an adapter available to allow this filter to connect to the end of a standard garden hose. I plan to use it to pump water out of a lake.** A: I would not recommend using this in a line pumping lake water. If there is much debris in the water you will be cleaning it all of the time. I would suggest a bigger unit. **Q: does it come in larger pipe connections ?** A: We do not carry this item in any other sizes. ## Customer Reviews ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Complete install guide. Excellent product. Necessary RV upgrade (plus accumulator) *by C***S on July 30, 2017* Put this strainer near your inlet to your Shurflo or other brand pump. I DO NOT recommend threading this directly on the pump head, because the pump head is soft thermoplastic, and you are better off following the directions below. Also get an accumulator (Shurflo part, about $44). Together, they make a solid, easy and I think, necessary, addition to your RV plumbing. My suggestions: if your pump is next to your tank, and you have a system that permits this, and has a floor-level outlet on the tank, here is a step-by-step: First phase: Re-plumb from the floor-level outlet of your tank, because it usually has an internal strainer that backs-up garbage in the tank. With the tank empty, look for and REMOVE THE EXISTING TANK STRAINER. It will usually easily come out of the threaded hole your plumbing leaves the tank from. These break and are, for obvious reasons, difficult to clean, backing up an organic sludge, even if you have drained it previously. Do new plumbing. Assuming you have a floor-level tank outlet, 1/2" female thread: Prepare your new plumbing, by building with half of a galvanized union joint, to the end of a 10" plastic nipple, with teflon tape. This leaves an easy joint to hook up the rest of your plumbing later. Run the other end of the plastic nipple into the tank, again, removing any existing tank strainer first. Mount wood to the floor if needed to make the nipple run completely perpendicular to the tank outlet, no cross threading. Use a 1/2" o-ring to help seal the nipple into the tank. Do not overtighten! It's a lot less force than you use with your downstream plumbing fittings. Literally, hand-tight. I found mine crossthreaded easily if overtightened. In my case, I also had a tank on carpet, so I needed wood to level the nipple. Yes, carpeted in the tank area. Use heavy pipe straps (electrical section of hw store) to stabilize the nipple down to the floor. Second phase: Mate the other end of the galvanized union to a 3 to 4" metal nipple with teflon tape, then the other end of the nipple to a galvanized corner T. On mine, shooting off at a 90deg angle, was almost perfect to meet up with the drain hole. It also goes straight up, where you will install another union fitting and an elbow, and the strainer. Finish the floor-level corner T exit with another metal 5" nipple, brass valve, and exit pipe to drain to the outside. Don't add these phase 2 component to the first phase plumbing yet. Just kit everything together, being careful not to disturb the initial 1/2 plastic nipple and union. Although P1 should be mounted solidly down. From the riser part of the corner T, install a short metal nipple and now, a plastic union. I think these are nylon or tough plastic, and used in irrigation. Now you should be able to install, and mount, the phase 2 elbow T/drain, with its fittings, to the floor, solidly, again with wood and straps on the wood if needed to bring it to tank level, and connect it to the first union, the galvanized one. Using a galvanized metal union for the first, has better clearance than the larger plastic kind. Plus, except for the plastic nipple leaving the tank, you want this corner and it's connected pieces, to be galvanized (metal), as it is more rigid. Floor should not flex over the short distance. Use straps to mount Phase 2 to the floor, solidly, both before the elbow, and after to the drain. The half of a plastic union should be sticking straight up. Phase 3 Off the plastic union second part, attach a SCH40 elbow w TT. Use one with a male threaded end, and a female threaded end. Into the female end, screw the Shurflo 255-313 Strainer w TT. This way, there should be about 2-3 inches of clearance between the bottom of the clear strainer basket, and the floor. This makes it easy to remove the strainer basket without having to completely empty the tank. You should have to have about a half-full tank to maintenance the strainer. Add a short plastic nipple to the strainer outlet w TT. Add Phase 3 plumbing to the existing plumbing, being careful to only tighten the plastic union joint, and not stress the Phase 2 plumbing. Use a flexible line (ACE has these for about 5-6$, in 12-16" lengths) 1/2" FIP to 1/2" FIP, connect to the strainer outlet to the pump head. The pump can be sitting on the floor, on it's rubber feet. No telfon tape needed on the flexible hose, as it has rubber cone washers embedded in it, and not a ton of torque (BE CAREFUL with the soft pump head). These very flexible lines also greatly reduce vibration into the plumbing. I found that the Shurflo PUMP HEAD especially, is a crappy kind of thermoplastic. VERY SOFT. Much softer than the Twist-on Strainer. So in order to access the strainer basket and reduce stress on the pump fittings, do not screw strainer directly onto the pump. Outlet of the pump, you are going to use another 1/2 FIP to 1/2 FIP. First, build your accumulator: use another short plastic nipple, on one side of a Shurflo accumulator, the side facing towards the pump if you mounted the accumulator. Screw the nipple into the accumulator with teflon tape first, then mount the accumulator, THEN lastly use the 1/2" to 1/2" flexible hose to hook pump to accumulator. This allows you to easily move the pump around to an ideal location, and also, disconnect when changing things like the pump head pressure switch (when it fails). After the accumulator, continue your regular plumbing. Mount the accumulator with the shrader valve pointing up, if you can, to make sure that water completely drains when winterizing. I had the model with the metal bracket, not the one with the rubber feet. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Can easily fix air leakage problems on your boat or RV *by G***0 on September 17, 2022* We have had an intermittent water problem on our 400 Searay Sundancer boat for several years. Most of the time our water pump would work, then not or the water would trickle out of the faucets. We replaced the pump and the accumulator tank, but the problem would happen again, then be fine. We replaced the pump twice! When it did run, there was always air in the line. Based on the water tank level, there was never an actual water leak. The original strainer never had any debris in it. My opinion is this was all a result of hard water, where calcium build-up formed over many years in the threads of the strainer. My removing the strainer to check for clogs on the strainer allowed air in the system, sometimes if I threaded the strainer back on the calcium moved and the system worked until it built up again. Or I might have a hairline crack in the strainer. I installed this strainer in less than 10 minutes and water is running great. We have no pipes banging, no air just running great. I took the old strainer off and soaked it in CLR to dissolve mineral deposits and will keep for a spare. Lesson for me on all of this is there can be an air leakage on the intake side of the pump. I'm certain this is what happened to me. Unfortunately, before I realized this, I bought new pumps which had nothing to do with the problem. This was a simple inexpensive fix to a puzzling problem that has gone on for a long time costing me $$$ in pumps and accumulator tanks. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Just right *by T***T on July 3, 2026* Fits and works great. ## Frequently Bought Together - SHURFLO (255-313) 1/2" Twist-On Pipe Strainer - SHURFLO 4008-101-A65 New 3.0 GPM RV Water Pump Revolution, 12V - SHURflo 182-200 Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank,Black, 9.1" x 4.8" x 3.8" --- ## Why Shop on Desertcart? - 🛒 **Trusted by 1.3+ Million Shoppers** — Serving international shoppers since 2016 - 🌍 **Shop Globally** — Access 737+ million products across 21 categories - 💰 **No Hidden Fees** — All customs, duties, and taxes included in the price - 🔄 **15-Day Free Returns** — Hassle-free returns (30 days for PRO members) - 🔒 **Secure Payments** — Trusted payment options with buyer protection - ⭐ **TrustPilot Rated 4.5/5** — Based on 8,000+ happy customer reviews **Shop now:** [https://www.desertcart.ni/products/1592531-255-313-1-2-twist-on-pipe-strainer](https://www.desertcart.ni/products/1592531-255-313-1-2-twist-on-pipe-strainer) --- *Product available on Desertcart Nicaragua* *Store origin: NI* *Last updated: 2026-09-18*