

🔧 Unlock your bike’s potential with the ultimate bottom bracket wrench!
The Park Tool HCW-11 is a dual-ended, 16mm slotted bottom bracket adjusting cup wrench made in the USA. Featuring a double pin lockring end for older bottom brackets and a raised open end, it offers precision, durability, and compatibility. Lightweight yet tough, it’s backed by a limited lifetime warranty and trusted by cycling pros for heavy-duty maintenance.
| ASIN | B000C14P1C |
| Batteries included? | No |
| Best Sellers Rank | 25,869 in Sports & Outdoors ( See Top 100 in Sports & Outdoors ) 201 in Hand Tools (Sports & Outdoors) |
| Brand | Park Tool |
| Color | Schwarz |
| Customer Reviews | 4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars (471) |
| Date First Available | 1 Jun. 2010 |
| Department | Unisex |
| Height | 4 inches |
| Included components | Crank, Bottom Bracket & Pedals |
| Is discontinued by manufacturer | Yes |
| Item display length | 8 inches |
| Item display width | 6 inches |
| Item model number | 118269 |
| Manufacturer | Park Tool |
| Material type | Plastic |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Product Dimensions | 6.35 x 0.25 x 20.32 cm; 100 g |
| Seasons | Evergreen |
| Size | One Size |
| Sport | 53000 Cycling |
| Style | HCW-11 Slotted Bottom Bracket Adjusting Cup Wrench |
| Weight | 113 g |
J**K
The only tool that would do the job
I bought this to remove an old style bottom bracket that had essentially welded itself to the bike. I must have hit this thing with a hammer approximately 1000 times and it stood up to the job very well. Glad I didn't buy a cheaper alternative. Very impressed. I got it off in the end if you were wondering! :-)
A**R
great
did the job .
S**E
Bought it. Used it. Broke it. Buying another one :)
This tool is good. It does the job. But one of the nibs snapped off on me after about 6th time using it. This could be my own fault. I've accepted that as a likely possibility. I break tools; alot. I'm going to get another one.
Z**S
Check the photos.
Easily slips off the bottom bracket, I had to put a scre with a washers to hold and press the key against cup. Plus it's werry short used cheater bar 🤗
T**S
expensive but works
quality
J**L
Hooray for capitalism.
Yes it does the job, but having to pay £17 for a piece of stamped metal?
S**N
Great tool
I got this today, I gave it to my fiance as soon as it arrived, the look of pure glee on his face said it all.... He opened it and went immediately to use the tool, he is happy = I am happy :)
K**E
Park Tool
Everything you would expect from a park tool,supplied by a reasonable price helps would recommend
T**E
I bought this tool as well for my bike this is the third time I bought another tool for my bike because there’s different types of nuts the tool works great
F**K
Macht was es soll! Stabil.
T**N
Title.
E**A
excelente calidad de acero, me permite hacer bien los ajustes necesarios para la reparación de bicicletas
P**A
Tool inside measurements are 16mm x 35mm. Good for vintage bikes! I used this to remove a seized vintage Raleigh bottom bracket cup. Use “the bolt trick” to help remove a stuck one. Bolt trick instructions: (or Google it, lots of people use this) Parts list: 1 bolt, 1 nut, 2 large washers, park tool wrench, a hammer. (Whenever you use a hammer on a bike, make sure your ball bearings are removed. If not possible, be aware you may damage parts. The hammer taps in this method need to be just the weight of the hammer, no added force. Be patient.) 1. Measure your axel hole and bottom bracket length for your bolt size. Measure bottom bracket diameter for the washer size. Get a bolt that fits in your axel hole with some wiggle room, get it as close as you can, and plenty long. I used a 5/8” x 6” bolt. Cheap digital calipers are good enough for stuff like this. 2. Get washers that are as wide or a little wider than the diameter of your bottom bracket. 3. Set up your bolt trick: put first washer against the bike, put the bolt through. On the other side put the second washer against the bike then screw the nut on, leaving about a centimeter of space. 4. Now slip in the wrench onto the bike, with your second washer on top, followed by the nut. 5. Tighten the nut carefully to keep the wrench in place. You may have to use two wrenches to hold the bolt. I had to use needle nose pliers on the end side of the bolt. That’s ok, it’s not supposed to be super tight. Just lightly snug. 6. Tighten nut until wrench is able to be held in place. *Gently* tap the wrench with a hammer. Once it slightly moves, loosen the nut a little to allow space for the bottom bracket cup to come out. Tap tap tap. Once it moves again, loosen nut again. Finally, loosen nut completely once you can use the wrench by hand without the hammer. Usually it just takes a couple little taps to break that initial seal. Seized cup tips: PB Blaster was not strong enough for a 50 year old stuck part. I soaked my bottom bracket cup in a 50/50 mixture of acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid. I would not do this on a frame you want to keep perfect, as the mixture can potentially damage your paint and metal. Watch it carefully and clean up any drips. Wear gloves and goggles and have drip pans ready. To soak it, angle the bike so that the fluid will flow out of the bottom bracket, not down the other tubes. Have drip pans ready anyway. And have a soapy wet towel to wipe up spills on your frame. That seemed to help me. I put the bike problem-cup side down, then took soaked pieces of paper towel and poked it into the bottom bracket shell with a tool. Making sure the paper towels come above the cup inside the bike. Regularly check on it and regularly pour more mixture into the paper towels. You can reuse the mixture that drains out of the bottom. I did this for 2-3 days. Good luck!
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