UPGRADED 2198202 Refrigerator Cold Control Thermostat Replacement - Compatible with Whirlpool & Kenmore Refrigerators - Replaces 2161284 2198201 PS11739232 AP6006166 WP2198202 161284 1110552

Please don't ask me if this part will fit your refrigerator/freezer, I don't know. Enter into Amazon or Google search, <your fridge brand and model> and "thermostat" to check correct part number. Diagnosis and installation instructions follow. Perfect replacement for Whirlpool ED25RFXFB01 (side-by-side refrigerator/freezer with fridge on right side), however this thermostat is commonly used on many different makes and models of refrigerator/freezers. Symptoms: Fridge in low 50s F, freezer in low 30s F, controls maxed out to cold but fridge shutting off, indicating not problem with low refrigerant or failing pump. Condenser and evaporator fans both working. Previously cleared huge blockage of dust from condenser grates underneath, very easy access for vacuum. Helped, but not total solution. Also, cold air outlet inside fridge was blocked by foods, causing evaporator to ice up, triggering defrost cycle, then promptly repeating; removing blockage also helped, but not solved. Decided to try thermostat, fixed it. Helpful: OEM part was $60-70, parts at $30 that said "by Whirlpool" had reviews that said "aftermarket part, not OEM, get cheaper one". Very cheap ones ($8-10) had poor reviews. This one was $14 and change, 98 reviews with only 2 or 3 bad, looked well packaged. Did come in box, but not plastic bag as shown. INSTALLATION TIPS: FOR SAFETY, DISCONNECT POWER TO FRIDGE/FREEZER! Instead of pulling fridge out to reach power plug to unplug, I turned off power at breaker box and locked box. To reach thermostat, control assembly (big plastic part that holds fridge and freezer control knobs) needs to be removed. Thermostat has long sensor wire, you'll also need access to that area. 1) Remove slender plastic cover between cold air grate and front controls, should be upper left inside fridge, one screw. (You need to do this first to expose the screw for next step.) 2) Remove plastic cover/grate where cold air enters fridge, should be top left back inside fridge, this is one screw at the front of the cover into the left wall of the fridge. Note how sensor wire is wrapped and clipped in place, take picture if needed. Unclip and unwrap sensor wire so can be pulled loose from front. 3) Remove fridge and freezer control knobs. You may need pliers to grab center tab and pull outward. 4) Front screws are behind plastic fascia with control labels. Pry fascia out at top edge and swing top edge forward, this will disengage bottom edge which cannot be pried. That will expose 2 front screws but leave those screws in place for now. 5) Do not loosen screws on bottom of plastic assembly yet, those hold the internal controls. 6) Remove 2 screws in back of assembly that hold assembly to roof of fridge. 7) Now remove 2 screws in front of assembly, disconnect two large plastic electrical connectors, then you'll need a short phillips screwdriver to release freezer control linkage with freezer knob. (Freezer control is not electronic, it just governs how much cold air is diverted from fridge to freezer; turning up freezer (colder) reduces cold air to fridge, so fridge a bit warmer.) Then withdraw entire assembly from fridge and sensor wire on left should follow if you have freed it in previous steps. Now place entire control assembly on work table or floor to swap thermostat. 8) Remove 2 screws on bottom of large assembly that holds internal metal plate to which thermostat is attached, then pull loose 3 small electrical connectors. Make sure you photo or note positions of two connectors on left. 9) Remove 2 screws that attach thermostat to metal plate, free long sensor wire from clip at left of assembly or pull wire through, and remove old thermostat from assembly. Immediately mark as old to prevent confusion with new part. 10) Before assembly, test fit fridge control knob on new thermostat! (I did not do this and it was a bugger to get the knob back on later, the blades on the new thermostat were just a shade too wide.) If necessary, put knob on and off a few times until goes on easy, otherwise will bend internal metal bracket trying to put knob on later. 11) Install new thermostat in control assembly, and reconnect the 3 wires. (NOTE: Do not overtighten any screws, all are into either plastic or sheet metal and will easily strip.) 12) Place control assembly back in fridge by a) inserting control wire on left, b) connecting freezer control linkage with special screw and washer, c) connecting both electrical connectors, d) install 2 front screws to hold assembly (note: these screws govern fit of fascia, so if difficult to reinstall fascia or too much gap at top, adjust at screws to position assembly up or down). 13) Back/top/left, wrap and secure sensor wire into clips as per original installation. Make sure plastic sleeve is same so several inches of end of wire is exposed. 14) Reinstall cold air cover/grate and screw. 15) Reinstall slender plastic cover and screw (over sensor wire and freezer control linkage). 16) Reinstall 2 rear screws holding back of control assembly to ceiling of fridge. 17) Reinstall fascia with control assembly labels, bottom edge first, then swing upward and press into place. (Adjust 2 front screws on assembly if needed.) 18) Reinstall freezer and fridge control knobs, matching orientations to shafts. 19) Reconnect power to fridge, adjust fridge and freezer controls to middle settings and wait to cool down. Should run continuously for several hours. Best to have thermometers in both fridge and freezer (check calibration of thermometers first). Adjust settings after 24 hours

Thermostat was simple to install and saved the life of a sears Kenmore refrigerator that was about to be scrapped. Glad I tried the thermostat This year the fridge made 30 years!!. It's working like a new fridge already.

This was a perfect fir, and by all appearances a perfect copy of the original. This was a first try. I was a bit nervous as we had no other option for refrigeration and a full freezer. The first issue was that all the eggs on the top shelf froze in our 13 (?) year old Kenmore side by side. When I tapped on the control I heard a snap and the motor stopped, later as the temp. rose the motor restarted. The unit was delivering plenty of freezing air. The freezer compartment was at minus 9 degrees. Went to the internet to look up info on our model number. Found the part at PS and one other site. Cost about $90. Then went to internet you tube for directions. There was the WP mate to our Kenmore. A ten minute video showed exactly how to do the repair. It took a putty knife, two screw drivers (slot and phil) and a 1/4 nut driver. I also used a set of pliers. The tape ended mentioning looking around for less expensive parts (mentioning our favorite fast delivery "A"). When the part arrived I inspected it, pulled the video again and watched it twice then set to work. I held my breath when I connected the electric- Bingo, the refrigerator started. Over the next 24 hours I adjusted the temperature and confirmed everything was running properly. I'm a 75 y/o retired guy. The difficulty part was moving the box away from the wall to unplug the power, and a twisting motion to see connections and pull (unplug) them. Four years ago this would have been a snap. Use the internet for your model number parts list and identical parts with different numbers. THIS thermostat is used under at least 4 different names, and 6 different numbers. Using this cold switch (thermostat) from Amazon saved me about 70% on the part, and $174 plus tax for a local service technician house call.

My side-by-side french door Whirlpool fridge was intermittently not cooling. I usually was able to restart the cooling by turning the temperature control knob to off and then on again. This started as a once every few days event then became once every few hours till it no longer reliably restarted the fridge. I checked the evaporator heating coil, checked the condenser, replaced the freezer thermostat, replaced the control board, and cleaned the condensing coils and none of that fixed the issue. The fix was this thermostat replacement. Install was very easy, about 5-15 minutes depending on how fast you work. No more than a few screws, easy access to the front of the fridge, and no special tricks. I inspected the old thermostat and the damage/wear was obvious: the contacts had burned up on the inside, so the condenser was not engaged when the temperature rose. This replacement was much cheaper than an OEM part or a similar part from my local appliance store (~$20 vs. $80). The fridge is completely fixed for the last 3 months or so with one minor complaint... The one thing I do not like about this part is the temperature is set really cold. I know, it is an adjustable knob you say, but like other commenters have mentioned, to get the proper 0 degF in the freezer and 32 degF in the fridge, you have to turn the knob so far down it almost looks like it is off based on the markings on the fridge faceplate. And I still have liquids that freeze in the back of the fridge. This is a much better problem to have then no cold, so I'll consider a minor -1 star quibble. To measure the temperature, I recommend a instant read thermometer, a cup of cooking oil in the freezer (won't freeze), and a cup of water in the fridge (in theory, wont freeze, but will till you turn this thing way down).

Super! Fonctionne bien.

De lo que pidas en Amazon. Es lo que recibes muy satisfecho de lo que pedí

Me enviaron un termostato genérico, no es el que solicité. Lo he regresado y sigo esperando mi devolución.

Did the trick and got my fridge up and running. It's pretty obvious that this is cheaper quality than the OEM thermostat right out of the box, but it's also only 10% of the cost of an OEM thermostat. It's fit isn't as nice as the OEM and the knob doesn't fit down on the shaft as nicely, but once it's dialled into the right temp, you're not going to be using it often so it shouldn't matter. Only reason I gave this 4 stars instead of 5 is because it's audibly louder than the OEM. The spring inside is loud when it kicks on. I'm still grateful for this inexpensive thermostat for getting me up and running in short time.

Can't control the temperature