Freud 8" Box Joint Cutter Set with Tico Hi-Density Carbide for Perfect Square Joints - Includes 2 Blades, 1/4" & 3/8" Groove Widths, 5/8" Arbor, Anti-Kickback Design - SBOX8

I used these to cut 3/8” rabbets along both edges of some longer boards for floating shelves I’m building. The blades gave a nice clean cut and were easily able to handle the rip, which I was initially worried about since they are designed for shorter cuts. This didn’t bog down my compact portable saw at all as long as I fed nice and slow with good dust collection. By the way I have the DeWalt jobsite saw (DWE7485) and the blades fit just fine on my arbor and even fit with the provided throat plate! Highly recommend these blades!

I wanted to make box joints and bought this to do that. It works wonderfully at 1/4 and 3/8 inch (what it supposed to do). Makes clean cuts. I got my money and more in value. Recommend.

good dado set

I was about to return these due to uneven cuts but, after reading other reviews, realized it was my saw that was the problem and not the blades being defective (older Craftsman table saw with 1 blade resting on threads of the arbor). I followed another review's advice and put the blades on a 5/8" dowel (didn't have a bolt....which is what they did) to align them and clamped together before installing. Tedious, but worked perfectly once installed (3 installs/removals so far so is repeatable). Would give 5 stars if product info/instructions were better.

I've been using a Jet 10" "bench top" table saw for making box joints for boxes, drawers, etc. using a DIY sled. This model of table saw will not accept a dado blade so any cuts wider than 1/8" (width of saw blade) had to be made by multiple cuts. Fortunately I found this box joint cutter set that uses two blades, without requiring shims, to cut 1/4" or 3/8" cuts and will work perfectly with the Jet saw. The other plus with this cutter set is that it makes flat cuts so there's no needed clean up.

I bought this blade set to give me a perfectly square (flat) miter for a spline key. I'm building interior shutters for my windows - lower half of the window, hammered glass shutters (to let light in while providing privacy). My frame for the shutter is 2.25" oak with a channel for the glass and using 45 degree miter cuts on the corners. A very weak joint for this. I needed to strengthen the joints with the spline key, but finding a blade that cut square was impossible. All of the teeth cut angles, and this leaves a "V" shaped base on the cut. Also, I needed 1/4" for the cut, not 1/8 which a normal blade would provide. I have the Excalibur dado blade from Craftsman (do they make these anymore?) but that also doesn't cut a perfectly square channel. I really didn't want to invest $100+ in another dado blade (one with two outside blades using extra blades between them to provide the width). I researched my needs and encountered this blade. I thought it answered my needs, so I ordered it. Note: I built a jig to hold the shutter so the corner can be cut. The blade, using the 1/4" cut, cut the corner without any chipping or pulling when it exited the joint (oak can easily splinter if one is not careful). I was able to quickly and easily cut all 8 corners on my set of shutters and insert my splines without issue. I did wait until my cuts were made before I planed down the spline board so I was able to ensure the proper fit. So, if you are making shutters or anything else with a 45 degree corner that needs additional support besides glue, this blade (and appropriate jig) make terrific cuts for spline keys. Note: In shear laziness, I didn't want to change blades to rip the spline key oak after planing it to the proper thickness, so I set up my rip fence with this blade - it doesn't do a good job ripping - way too much to cut at one time. It did the job, but I won't do that again!

EASY set-up for either 1/4" or 3/8" cuts (no others available), that work great as soon as installed.

I've used the set some and wish I bought something else. The blades are hefty, the teeth sharp, but there is a terrible vibration and visible oscillation of the outer blade most of the time. Freud faults my arbor, believing it to be tapered, so that the outer blade can be off-center when mounted. But if I remove my inner blade stiffener when using the stack set, the outer blade is at the same position to the arbor (actually slightly closer) than my normal 10" blades, since I use a blade stiffener on both sides of a 10" blade. The wobble has caused the blades teeth to hit each other and chip them, but the cut quality is still OK. Not sure what it would be like after lots of use. The only thing I have found to make the blades work as expected is to remount them until you get lucky (no vibration), and tighten the arbor bolt very tight - more than snug! Freud could prevent this if it had pins and sockets on the blades to keep them in register. It could also be the bevel on the arbor hole makes the blade more susceptible to wobble. I might try the CMT set to see if it is easier to set up. I can't afford to spend an hour or more mounting and remounting an remounting the blades until the work acceptably.