Bohning Platinum Fletch Tite 3/4oz

I used this cement to fletch plastic vanes to Easton aluminum arrows (details below). I also used it to cement a magnet to my tool box lid to hold the latches when they are open (they always fall back down when I try to shut the lid and block closure, requiring two hands to then lift the latches until the lid is closed). The cement worked VERY WELL for both instances. I realized the next day that I screwed up placement of a couple vanes. Removing them was NOT EASY. In fact, it was much more difficult to remove these vanes than it was to remove the feathers that a professional shop had applied a few years ago. Basically, there was NO WAY I could "strip" off the newly applied vanes (although the old feathers came off quite easily!). I had to use a razor to slice off the new vanes. I was a little worried that, since the cement held the vanes SO tightly, it was going to be very difficult to clean the shaft in preparation for applying new vanes (in the correct location this time!). I was pleasantly surprised. A carefully angled razor cleaned up the shaft in less than a minute, and a quick twist in fine steel wool and an alcohol rinse left the shaft completely free of any residue and ready for fletching again! I liked the consistency of the cement: it was thin enough to spread out evenly, but not so runny that it dripped all over. I also like the long stem, clear applicator that extends from the cement tube. This allowed me to see the cement (and a few bubbles) coming from the tube so I could adjust the flow accordingly. The applicator nozzle wiped clean easily so it didn't build up residue or clog. The drying time is ideal for fletching. The cement was easily workable the 10-15 seconds it takes to apply and then position the fletching. In 3 minutes, the jig could be removed without disturbing the fletching (I worked gently and did not disturb any of the 35+ fletchings I applied). I usually waited a little more than 3 minutes, never less. I left the finished arrows (not resting on the fletchings!) to cure overnight before storing them in my arrow case. All the fletchings appeared very well adhered and surprisingly strong. FLETCHING PROCEDURE USED (FYI) I will not go into vane vs. feather, fletching length, twists, or center of gravity discussions. There is plenty of that on the net. After making all those decisions, this is the down and dirty process I use to fletch arrows. 1. SURFACE PREPARATION I used a razor to remove all remnants of prior fletchings, then lightly scrubbed the aluminum shafts with fine steel wool, rinsed with alcohol, then dried with clean paper towel to prep the shaft. I also used fine steel wool and alcohol to scrub the base of the new vane (to remove any manufacturing residue and plastic mold surface oils). This was easiest with the vane mounted in the fletching jig. Then I dried off the vane with a clean paper towel, making sure to run the paper towel in the little valley at the base of the vane where it will meet the shaft. 2. APPLYING CEMENT With the vane in the fletching jig, I ran a thin bead of cement down the base of the vane, then used the edge of a toothpick (or popsicle stick) to both even out the glue and remove excess glue by GENTLY running the stick from one end of the fletching to the other while moving the stick gently from one side to the other (like a violinist drawing the bow across the vane). The violinist motion keeps the cement from building up into one big blob on the stick. After carefully aligning the jig with the arrow shaft (read your jig's instructions), I carefully pressed the base of the vane against the shaft, very firmly and evenly. With the shaft and vane joined in the jig, I used a squared popsicle stick to remove any large blobs of glue that formed along the edges of the vane. The glue is now setting up and gets thick quickly. 3. WAITING After the vane is firmly placed against the shaft and excess glue removed, I start a 3 minute timer. Sometimes I wander away to do something, or I just read a book or news article. After the 3 minute timer ends, I gently remove the vane from the jig and rotate the arrow shaft to the next position. 4. LAST CEMENT WORK After all vanes are cemented into place, I put the arrow in a support so it does not rest on any of the fletchings. I then apply a small dot of cement to the front (leading edge) and the back (trailing edge) of each vane. One could also just set the arrows on a table with the fletchings extending over the edge of the table. I leave them to cure for at least 24 hours. 5. FINISH WORK After curing, I inspect each arrow. If any vanes are misplaced or otherwise screwed up (usually "carbon based" error (that means I screwed up)), I set them aside for rework. I very carefully use a razor to trim any excess cement from the sides of the fletchings. I leave the cement dots at the leading and trailing edges of the fletchings (which receive the most abrasion and stress). Then I put them in an arrow case, being careful not to bend any fletchings in storage. Job done!

It seems these days archery glue merchants try to get 10 to 20 bucks for a small quantity of glue that probably costs less than 25 cents to manufacture. I paid 6 bucks for this tube, so it was far cheaper than the other glues on the market. I've noticed several merchants here trying to sell this same glue for over twelve bucks a tube, which is ridiculous. I have used various glues through the years and this stuff is good-- IF one follows the instructions. Those instructions are simple: PREPARE THE SHAFT BEFORE APPLYING THE GLUE. I like to use very fine sandpaper and then another acetone or denatured alcohol rinse. Make sure the shaft is perfectly clean and dry. Then I apply the vanes, ALLOWING ENOUGH TIME TO DRY. I suggest a good 10 minutes before releasing clamps... and then this glue has a 48 hour full-cure time. Don't try to skimp on that cure time. If you do, it's not the glue's fault if vanes come off. Once it cures it holds like iron... for years. A vane will tear and rip before that glue lets loose. ONE TRICK I like to do is: once the vanes are on the shaft and set, I put an entire FULL RING of glue around the front and back of the vane, covering the vane tip and rear. Use some saliva or water on your fingertip to "flatten" the glue ring (doesn't hurt the glue and that way it won't stick to your finger). That way if the vane does hit something, the glue takes the brunt of impact instead of the front of the vane. Doing this... there's no need to 'string wrap' your vanes unless you just want the look. (If you do string wrap, put a coating of this glue over the string when you're done. Holds forever.) That's it. That's a fool-proof method for getting vanes or feathers to stick to any kind of shaft forever (carbon, graphite, aluminum, wood). If you don't cut any corners, those vanes or feathers will stay adhered longer than the arrow itself will last. This is the best glue I've found for vanes and fletchings, but also works with a whole bunch of other materials: wood, metal, plastic, glass and more. Unlike super glues it doesn't crystalize over time, but retains its consistency and holds very well, for years. I have some arrows that I fletched 20 years ago with this stuff and it's still holding. That said, you can go down to your local dollar store or hardware store and buy standard clear household glue that will work just as well for fletching arrows... and will cost a whole lot less. So why do I use Fletch Tite? Because I absolutely know it will work, no questions. That said, just for the fun of it my next set of arrows I'm fletching with clear handyman glue. At my age it doesn't have to last 25 years. ; ) Understand that with all such glues you have to give them their full curing time. I noted one user here only allowed 24 hour drying time on this glue on dozens of arrows-- and then complained about all his vanes coming off. The manufacturer clearly states 48 hours for full cure. That's a drawback, but it's also the reality for this kind of glue. Take that time seriously, be patient, and you won't lose vanes. It's that simple. The problem with quick-drying super glues is that they crystalize over time, then the vanes will start shredding all at the same time. You'll be at a competition or practicing, and suddenly the arrows that worked perfectly well the week before will start losing their vanes all at once, because the glue crystalizes with considerable predictability. The one drawback of FletchTite is that it tends to dry out in the tube. One trick is when you first use the glue, open the top (with a nail or whatever), attach the tip, tap the tube with your fingers several times to get air bubbles to the top and squeeze the tube slightly to get the air out of the tube. You don't want air inside the tube or your tube life will degrade considerably. Do this after each time you use the glue; get the excess air out of that tube. It doesn't hurt to squeeze a little glue into the cap before putting it on the applicator. That keeps air out of the tip, and the dried glue is easily removed from the vinyl tip. This is simply the best there is for what it does. For putting vanes on arrows, I've found nothing better.

Klebt super

Great adhesive just make sure you clean the surface of the arrows with a good alcohol or acetone

Tal como se ve. Lo abri hace mas de un mes y sigue bien

Not great.

Es ideal per instal·lar plomes a les fletxes